Why is my washer not draining? Here’s why.
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At the end of the washer cycle, you open the washer and discover that there is a tub of standing water. The clothes are wet and the machine did not finish and you do not know why. A washer not draining water – is one of the most common repair calls we get at Wilson & Myers. The good news: the causes are mostly of a few definite categories. Others you can have done within ten minutes. There are others requiring a technician. Both are discussed in this guide.
Why Is My Washer Not Draining? Quick Symptom Check
Before you pull the machine out from the wall, match your symptom to the most likely cause. This takes about 60 seconds and points you to the right section below.
| Symptom | Most Likely Cause | DIY or Pro? |
|---|---|---|
| Standing water after full cycle | Clogged drain pump filter or drain hose | DIY |
| Washing machine won’t drain or washer not spinning | Lid switch (top load) or door latch (front load) | DIY possible |
| Loud humming or grinding during drain | Object jammed in pump impeller | DIY possible |
| Washer stops mid-cycle with water inside | Control board or error code | Check error code first |
| Burning smell during drain | Pump motor failure | Call a pro |
| Front-load door won’t unlock after cycle | Door latch or pressure switch | DIY possible |
Top Causes of a Washer Not Draining
Cause #1. Clogged Drain Pump Filter
This is the number one reason a washing machine not draining water on front-load machines, first thing to check if a washer drain clogged and can be fixed within ten minutes without any tools. The drain pump filter (also known as a coin trap) filters lint, hair, coins and other small objects before they reach the pump. With time, it becomes crammed solid and water does not flow through.
On most front-loaders (Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, and Maytag) the filter is positioned behind a small access door on the bottom front of the machine. It’s the first component we check on any washer not draining front load call.
How to clean it:
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Put a shallow container and old towels under the access panel. |
| 2 | Unscrew the filter cap on the panel gradually – take your time, water behind it. |
| 3 | Allow water to flow into the container, and remove the filter. |
| 4 | Take out lint and coins or debris. Wash with running water. |
| 5 | Install, close panel, perform a short drain cycle. |
Top-load washers do not necessarily have a filter that is accessible – debris passes directly to the pump. Start with Cause #2, in case you have a top-loader.
Cause #2. Blocked or Kinked Drain Hose
The drain hose is a pipe that runs back of the washer into a standpipe or utility sink. Three things can go wrong in this: when the hose is pushed too close to the wall, it kinks behind the machine, or it becomes clogged with lint over the years, or it gets stuck too deep in the standpipe, forming a siphon that pulls the water back in.
Take out the washer and visualize the hose of the machine at the back of the machine up to the point where it enters into the drain. Straighten any kinks. When you think there is a clog, remove the hose and run a long flexible brush against the hose. And test the depth of the insertion: the end of the hose must be 30-96 inches off the floor according to specifications. Go too deep and you have siphoning. Too superficial and it will not drain anywhere.
Cause #3. Failed Drain Pump
The washing machine drain pump physically moves water out of the tub. When it breaks, you generally hear it a loud humming or grinding sound as the motor struggles in vain to rouse water. In nine out of ten cases, a small item (a coin, bra wire, button) is stuck in the pump impeller and preventing it to spin.
The pump can be accessed depending on the model, but it can usually be accessed by taking off the front panel or tilting the machine back. When the obstruction is not the problem, and the pump motor itself is burned out, you are considering washer pump replacement, and it is a DIY that is easy enough to do when you are a skilled homeowner. Should the motor freeze and you are smelling of burning plastic, call a technician.
Wilson & Myers handles pump replacements on all major brands. If you’re not comfortable pulling the pump yourself, professional washer repair in Denver is a call or text away.
Cause #4. Lid Switch or Door Latch Failure
Top-load washers have a lid switch – a tiny safety gadget which informs the machine that the lid is open or closed. A failure in the switch causes the machine to believe that the lid is left open and halts the cycle, that is, no draining, no spinning. It is easy to test: with the machine open, use your finger to press the switch. A definite click should be heard. No click indicates that it has probably failed.
Instead, front-loaders have a lock assembly and door latch. Failure to turn on the latch will result in the machine not running. When it malfunctions halfway down the line, the door remains shut and water will remain. Replacing a top-loader lid switch is a simple DIY project – typically two screws and a wire connector. A front-loader door latch (particularly on the Bosch, Miele or LG) is more engaged, but can still be reached.
Cause #5. Clogged Household Drain or Standpipe
This is not an appliance issue, but a plumbing issue. If the standpipe or sewer line is partially blocked, the washer will drain slowly or back water up into a nearby sink. Symptoms to look out: water taking too long to drain through other fixtures in the laundry, the draining of the washer gurgles, or the backing up of water.
In case any other drains around are slow as well, terminate troubleshooting the washer and call a plumber. There’s nothing wrong with the machine.
Cause #6. Control Board or Electrical Fault
Not common, though, and should be checked in case everything is otherwise fine and the machine continues to show a fault. The pump is fed by the drain signal sent to it by the control board. In case of a board error or sensor problem the drain cycle does not begin. The error code will normally appear on the machine. Some typical drain-related error codes:
Whirlpool: F21 | Samsung: 5E or nF | LG: OE | Maytag: F21
Step 1: Find the specific code of your model. Then power cycle- disconnect the machine 60 seconds, reconnect it and run a drain cycle. In the event of a reoccurring error, a technician must figure out whether it is the board, one of the sensors or a wiring connection. Then, do not change the board on a code alone- that is a costly component that is not always the cause of the problem.
How to Drain a Washing Machine Manually (Emergency Steps)
Immediately you would require removing standing water before you can diagnose the problem and here is how it can be done safely. Never run the spin cycle to push the water out – this may cause the pump to break even more.
| Step | What to Do |
|---|---|
| 1 | Unplug the machine. Do not work on a washer with water on it when plugged in. |
| 2 | In front-loaders: find the drain pump filter access panel (bottom front). In top-loaders: the drain hose is at the rear. |
| 3 | Prepare towels and a shallow dish (a baking sheet is a good choice). |
| 4 | Unscrew the filter cap (front load) or push the end of the drain hose beneath the tub (top load), gradually. Gravity will cause the flow of water. |
| 5 | When it is empty, revisit the cause list above and then run another cycle. |
Brand-Specific Notes on Drain Issues
A Whirlpool washer not draining is almost always a pump filter clog or a failed lid switch on top-loaders. The front-load models of Whirlpool (and their models under the Maytag brand name) share the same filter housing – that is behind a rectangular panel located on the bottom right. Something unique to Whirlpool: when the machine has an F21 error and is not draining, this error code indicates the draining cycle took more than 8 minutes. Clean the filter. When the F21 returns after cleaning, then that probably means the pump is about to get its end.
A Samsung washer not draining typically shows a 5E or nF error code. The pump filter is located at the bottom front of Samsung front-loaders, although they do have a small debris trap within the door gasket, which homeowners can easily overlook – look in the rubber bellows to see whether there are coins or hair ties trapped in the folds. The drain errors in Samsung top-loaders with the ActiveWash or Digital Inverter motor can also be thrown when the sump hose is kinked at the bottom of the tub. Should the 5E not be resolved with a filter clean, do not jump to the conclusion that the pump is dead but instead, remove the machine and check the hose routing.
An LG washer not draining shows an OE error (outlet error). LG front-loaders are especially vulnerable to pump filter accumulation due to the fact that the filter chamber is located at a slight angle – debris compact easily. LG also has a mesh pre-filter on some models which is installed within the pump housing itself; again, when the main filter cover appears clean, but the OE is present, a look inside the mesh is worth considering. On LG top-loaders, one of the most frequent offenders is the drain hose loop – LG needs a type of high-loop installation at the rear of the machine. Siphoning can lead to intermittent failures of the drain, which will appear like a pump issue, should the hose be rerouted or dropped anywhere.
A Maytag washer not draining usually comes down to one of two things depending on the model. In Maytag front-loaders (which are based on the same platform as Whirlpool) the filter location and the F21 error behavior are the same as on Whirlpool above. The more frequent failure mode in Maytag top-loaders (especially the Bravos and the Centennial) is the pump itself, and not a filter, as those models do not have a coin trap accessible to users. When you can hear a loud humming sound in the drain cycle but no water is passing, then there is most certainly something stuck in the pump impeller. Another common failure in these machines is lid switch failure – the actuator tab on the lid breaks and the machine will halt half way through its cycle believing the lid to be open. See whether the tab is correct before ordering a complete switch assembly.
Washer Not Draining and Not Spinning. What That Combination Means.
One of the most frequently occurring combinations of symptoms that we see is a washing machine not draining or spinning at the same time, and it nearly always has just one cause of the problem, rather than two issues. Majority of the washers have a safety interlock installed in them so that the spin cycle does not run until the tub has emptied. In case there is an obstruction of the drainage, then the machine will also not rotate. The causes above are precisely the same fixes. Fix the drainage problem – empty the filter, repair the hose, change the lid switch – and the spin feature just about always recovers its proper operation. Should the washer still fail to spin despite drainage being re-established, then the spin motor or drive belt should be examined separately.
Is It Worth Repairing a Washer That Won’t Drain?
Repair is an obvious economic option in most drain problems. Average washer repair cost due to drainage issues – cleaning of filters, changing hose, pump change, lid change – costs range between 280 and 350 including labor. A new entry-level washer starts at $500–$700+tax+delivery+installation, and a mid-range machine is $800–$1,200+tax+delivery+installation.
The rule of thumb: when the machine is less than 8-10 years of age, and a repair will be less than half the cost of a replacement, then repair it. Washers at this age still have the majority of their life span ahead of them.
When we go out and diagnose a washer at Wilson & Myers we provide you with a blunt evaluation of what is wrong, what it will cost and whether it would be worth repairing. No coercion, no hawking.
When to Call Wilson & Myers
Complete the above steps first. Majority of the draining problems can be resolved in less than 30 minutes by DIY. Call us when:
✓ Pump motor is dead (it has a burning smell, there is no hum at all during drain)
✓ Does not clear on a power reset with an error code.
✓ You have a complicated front-loader (Bosch, Miele, LG) of which there is a problem with the door latch.
✓ Water is flooding in other fixtures – plumbing call we will tell you so.
✓ You have tried all the above and the machine does not drain.
If you’ve worked through the basics and your washer is still full of water, our Denver technicians can diagnose and fix the problem. Often same day.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my washer not draining?
A blocked drain pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose or a broken lid switch or door latch are the most frequent reasons. On front-loaders, start with the pump filter- check – 10 minutes, no tools. Check the drain hose and then the lid switch on top-loaders.
How do I manually drain my washing machine?
Take out the plug, put towels under the access panel (front load), and a shallow container beneath the drain hose (top load) and gradually open the filter cap or bring the end of the hose down to allow water to drain by gravity. Never spin the spin cycle to spin it, this will break the pump.
My washer is not draining or spinning, is that the case?
Almost always, yes. A majority of washers have a safety interlock, which does not allow spinning until the tub is emptied. Correct the drainage issue and the spin feature normally resumes automatically. When the spinning is still missing after drainage has been reinstated, then the spin motor or drive belt will require a separate diagnosis.
Should a washing machine that is not draining be repaired?
Yes, in most cases. Drain repairs usually cost around 100-250 including labor, which is less than 500 or more to replace the machine. In the case of washers that are less than 10 years old, repair is nearly always economical. Wilson & Myers will provide you with a true estimate before a work begins.
Why does my front-load washer stop mid-cycle with water inside?
This normally indicates a door latch malfunction, a control board malfunction or an obstructed pump filter that is causing an error code. See the display first with a fault code (OE on LG, 5E on Samsung, F21 on Whirlpool). In case there is no code set, then begin with the pump filter, this is most likely the most frequent cause on a front-loader.
