
Frigidaire Ice Maker Not Working? 7 Causes and How to Fix Each
You pull open the freezer on a July evening and find an empty bin. A Frigidaire ice maker not working in peak summer is one of the most frequent calls our Denv…
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Most Midea dishwasher calls come down to four complaints: a door that will not latch, a fill that never happens, standing water, or dirty dishes. Insured technicians cover all four across Denver Metro Area. Our Midea kitchen appliance repair page covers the rest of the room, and our general dishwasher repair page covers every other brand.
| Code | What it means | What it points at |
|---|---|---|
| E1 | The fill did not finish inside the time the control allows. | The supply side and the inlet valve. Also a tub that never drained, which stops the fill before fresh water enters. |
| E3 | The heating step ran past its time limit without reaching temperature. | The heating circuit or the sump sensor. Cycles that run far too long often show this first. |
| E4 | The overflow or leak sensor stayed tripped for more than two seconds. | Suds from the wrong detergent, a blocked float, a backed-up drain, or a genuine leak. |
| E6 | The temperature sensor reads as an open circuit. | The sump sensor or its wiring. Reading it needs a meter, so it is a service call. |
| E7 | The temperature sensor reads as a short circuit. | The sump sensor or its wiring. Reading it needs a meter, so it is a service call. |
| Ed | The two boards stopped talking to each other for more than twenty seconds. | The ribbon between the display board and the main control board first, then the display board. |
Two faults hide behind a Midea dishwasher not turning on. Owners search it as a Midea dishwasher won’t turn on, or a Midea dishwasher no power fault, and it is the same pair. A dead panel with power at the outlet points at the electronic control module. A dark panel means no power at the machine, usually a tripped breaker or a dead outlet shared with the disposal. A panel that lights up and ignores Start is almost always the door, because if the latch does not catch the switch never closes.
Two settings make the machine look like it won’t turn on with nothing broken at all. The child lock is Delicate and Quick held together for three seconds, and Delay Wash may still be counting down. Past that, the work moves to the door switch, the ribbon between the boards, then the display board and the control board behind it.
The catch takes the full weight of the door every time it closes, and on the MDT24H3AST it is a known wear point. It is behind a fair share of the Midea dishwasher MDT24H3AST repair calls we take. Three faults present the same way. The latch loses its return spring, so the catch no longer meets the strike squarely. The strike drifts if the unit was never leveled and secured to the counter.
The switch can also fail while the latch is fine, which reads as a door that shuts but will not start. One fix is yours. Move the tall item in the rack that is holding the door open. Everything past that means splitting the door, and we source the door latch assembly through national supplier networks and manufacturer contracts.
This code often starts elsewhere. Your water supply is usually fine. If the previous cycle did not drain, water is still sitting in the tub. A tub that never emptied can stop the fill before fresh water enters. The cycle then times out and posts E1 rather than a drain code.
Owners then spend a weekend on the shutoff and the inlet hose, find nothing, and price a replacement. The fault sits downstream. A drain pump at the other end of the machine never emptied the tub.
An empty tub changes the answer. The manufacturer’s own order of checks holds.
Everything from the water inlet valve screen inward sits behind the toe kick under live water.
E4 does not always mean a puddle. It means the float switch in the base tray was held up for more than two seconds, so the control stopped everything and drained out. Detergent is a common cause. Anything that foams lifts that float the way a leak does.
E4 also outranks every other code, so an overflow trip can sit on top of the fault that started it. A real leak takes time to find. We dry the base tray, run a long hot program, and check every twenty minutes for where water arrives first.
Some leaks show only at rest. A displaced door gasket or a loose hose clamp turns up the same way. Check the door seal for a trapped object and wipe it down before assuming worse.
Look at the detergent cup first. If it is still full at the end of the cycle, the detergent is not the problem and the wash never reached it. Spray arms are the usual reason, and paper labels off jars are named in Midea’s own manual as a cause of blocked arms and pumps.
Tall items on the bottom rack stop the upper arm turning. Old detergent will not dissolve. The floor is one tablespoon per load. When the arms spin freely and the water is hot, the next suspect is the circulation pump.
A pump that buzzes without moving water is weak or seized, and a machine left idle for months can have a bonded pump seal. Midea’s service documentation calls this part the wash pump. Either way it sits behind the toe kick, so the machine comes out. Our dishwasher not cleaning dishes guide covers the same checks.
Ask what actually came out wet. If it is only the plastics, there is no fault to repair, because plastic holds almost no heat. If everything is wet, start at the rinse aid reservoir, which Midea treats as part of how the machine dries.
Then check the cycle. Extended Dry adds roughly 42 minutes of heater and fan time and lifts the final rinse to 156.2°F, while an air-dry option does the opposite. A failing heating element shows up as cycles that run far too long, or as an E3 timeout. Plenty of Midea dishwasher not drying calls end with no repair at all. Clear the filter basket first either way.
The line we use on site is simple. If you can reach it by hand from inside the tub or from under the sink without tools, it belongs to you.
Midea builds the dishwasher filter in three parts, a cylindrical filter, a fine filter and a micro filter. All three are owner-serviceable, and Midea asks that they and the spray arm nozzles stay clear.
If it needs the unit pulled out, a water connection broken, or a meter across a circuit, it belongs to us. So does any code that comes back after that.
Midea asks for at least 120°F at the inlet and no more than 150°F, on the hot line only. Below that floor three complaints appear, and owners rarely connect them. Dishes stop coming clean.
Cycles run far longer, because the control holds the countdown until the water reaches temperature. And everything comes out spotted. Denver Metro housing makes this common, because the water heater usually sits at the far end of the house from the kitchen.
Altitude has nothing to do with it. Water boils near 202°F here, and the machine tops out at 156.2°F.
Denver Water describes its own supply as soft to moderately hard, which is not what most people in the metro assume. By the utility’s own account it runs harder in winter and softer through spring runoff. Many providers serve the Metro, so a house twenty minutes away can sit on harder water. The standard local advice is to dose detergent heavily.
In soft water, too much of it causes silica film and etching, and etching is permanent. Use less, and never less than one tablespoon. For spotting that wipes off, the answer is a topped-up rinse aid dispenser and hot water. The same supply feeds the ice system beside it, which our Midea refrigerator repair page covers.
The US lineup centers on the 24-inch built-in. Top control and front control layouts both appear.
The 45 dBA version with the third rack, the leak sensor and Extended Dry.
Another top control unit we work on.
Controls on the door face, which changes how the fascia comes apart.
We also work on the 18-inch built-in, the countertop unit and the portable. Units that spend a Denver winter in an unheated garage are their own case. Water left in the inlet valve expands. It splits a cavity that leaks only under pressure.
Find the tag before you book. It sits on the left side of the door and names the control platform, which decides how a code is read.
Midea routes warranty work exclusively through its own service network. That is the honest reason owners come to us out of warranty, or for a second opinion. Others simply want a Midea dishwasher repair service that answers to them. The appliance is usually fine. Finding an insured Midea dishwasher technician Denver homeowners can book, who will also source the parts, is the hard part.
Wilson & Myers works on the dishwasher where it stands, across Denver Metro.
We source Midea dishwasher parts through national supplier networks and manufacturer contracts, and every repair carries our 100-day labor warranty. If the rest of the kitchen carries the same badge, our Midea appliance repair page covers the full lineup. The 24-inch built-in cross-shops against Samsung. Our Samsung repair page covers it.
A Midea dishwasher won’t drain for two very different reasons, so start with whether it ever drained properly. One that never has since installation usually still has the garbage disposal knockout plug in place. One that drained fine until recently points at the filter stack, a kinked drain hose, a blocked air gap or the pump.
Clean the filter and empty the disposal. Then run a cycle. If the water returns within days, the blockage sits past what you can reach, and our garbage disposal repair page covers the sink side.
E4 means the overflow or leak sensor tripped, after the float in the base tray was held up for more than two seconds. It does not always mean water on the floor. Suds from the wrong detergent lift that float just as well.
Switch to a proper dishwasher detergent and check the filter for broken glass. If E4 comes back, the fault is real.
On models with cycle lights instead of a numeric display, the machine reports faults by flashing a combination of indicators at once. A Midea dishwasher with the Delicate light flashing is reporting a code in the only language it has. That pattern has to be read against the control board inside your unit, and the mapping differs across the line. Anyone who says a flashing Delicate light always means one particular part is guessing. Rule out the child lock first.
It is Delicate and Quick held together for three seconds. Rapid beeping alongside the Delicate indicator light does point at a real error, not the normal end-of-cycle tone. A photo of the panel moves the diagnosis along before anyone is on site.
Midea publishes no button combination for this, whatever you have read elsewhere. What works is a power cycle. Switch the dishwasher off at the breaker, leave it a few minutes, then restore power and run a short cycle.
That clears a control which has latched a fault. If the same behavior returns, no reset will touch it.
On a unit under about five years old, almost always yes. The common failures are the door latch, the drain pump, the inlet valve and the detergent dispenser, and all four are serviceable parts. Replacing the machine also means a fresh install, and the drain work is where much dishwasher trouble starts. We also say when it is not worth doing.
Coverage typically runs one year from the purchase date, to the original purchaser, with proof of purchase required. What it includes varies. Check the paperwork that came with the unit before booking.
Midea dishwasher warranty service runs through Midea’s own network, so a claim under coverage goes to them. Out of coverage, we can book Midea dishwasher service directly.
The whole metro, from the city itself out through the surrounding suburbs, including appliance repair in Denver. People who search Midea dishwasher repair near me want to know whether we come to their address. We do, and a request for Midea dishwasher repair Denver CO gets the same answer at every address inside the metro. Have the model number and any code on the display ready when you book.
Tell us the code on the display when you book. On a Midea dishwasher a drain fault often posts as a fill fault. The code points us at the right end of the water path.
Expert advice, maintenance tips, and troubleshooting guides for Midea appliances from our technicians.

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Wilson & Myers dispatches insured technicians to homes running Midea appliances throughout the Denver Metro Area.
The visit starts at the machine, with the fault code on the display and the model tag on the left side of the door. From there we work the water path: the supply shutoff, the inlet valve, the filter stack, the drain hose and the disposal connection. That order matters, because a drain fault on a Midea dishwasher often posts as a fill fault. We source Midea parts through national supplier networks and manufacturer contracts. Every repair carries our labor warranty.
Wilson & Myers is a verified member of the Denver Metro Chamber of Commerce.
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