
Frigidaire Ice Maker Not Working? 7 Causes and How to Fix Each
You pull open the freezer on a July evening and find an empty bin. A Frigidaire ice maker not working in peak summer is one of the most frequent calls our Denv…
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Your Maytag dishwasher will tell you what is wrong with it, and most owners never find out. Even a machine with no numeric display blinks its fault code out on the Clean light, in a pattern you can count.
That matters because a large share of these calls are plumbing rather than appliance. A drain plug left in a disposer, a supply valve never opened, a hose routed wrong. Those are quick, and knowing the code before we arrive shortens everything.
Wilson & Myers covers built-in and portable Maytag dishwashers across the Denver Metro Area, with insured technicians and a 100-day labor warranty.
Maytag publishes the decode for its own model numbers, and the useful part is near the front of the string. M is Maytag and D is dishwasher. The third letter is the one that matters.
A Maytag PowerBlast dishwasher runs that cycle alongside Dual Power Filtration and PowerDry, in a stainless tub with a 10-year limited parts warranty. Maytag rates its own dishwashers at 50 decibels, against quieter figures for its sister brands. That is a fact about the machine rather than a complaint about it. It explains an occasional call about noise that turns out to be normal.
This is the most useful thing on the page. Maytag dishwasher error codes are F and E pairs, and a machine with no numeric display still reports them. It blinks them.
The pattern is counted, not guessed. The Clean or Complete light blinks the function number, pauses about two seconds, blinks the error number, then pauses about five seconds and repeats. Count the two groups and you have the code.
Maytag’s own owner articles are literally titled by the blink pattern. Its F8E4 article is filed as eight blinks, a pause, four blinks. So a Maytag dishwasher with three lights and no screen is not mute, and reading it is free.
| Code | System and fault | What the manual names first |
|---|---|---|
| F1E1 | Control, main board | Relay or triac failure on the main control board. |
| F1E2 | Control, motor circuit | Motor control circuit failure on the main control board. |
| F2E1 | User interface, stuck key | The control detected stuck keys in the panel. |
| F3E1 | Thermistor, open or shorted | Temperature sensing circuit, or incoming water above 167 F. |
| F3E2 | Thermistor, failed calibration | Sensor failure, or the lens obstructed by scale or food soil. |
| F4E2 | Heating, relay stuck open | Open connection or component in the heater circuit. |
| F4E3 | Heating, relay stuck closed | Heater relay shorted on the control, or the heater shorted to ground. |
| F5E1 | Door, stuck open | The door was not latched within four seconds of pressing Start. |
| F5E2 | Door, stuck closed | The door was not opened between cycles, or the switch contacts stuck. |
| F6E1 | Communication | Loose connection or broken harness between panel and main control. |
| F7E1 | Wash motor not running | Loose connection in the motor circuit, or a faulty wash motor. |
| F7E2 | Wash motor, variable speed failure | Same circuit, on variable-speed machines. |
| F8E1 | Inlet water, no water | No water reaching the machine. Also pots loaded upside down, or a plugged inlet screen. |
| F8E2 | Inlet water, valve electrical | Loose connection or open fill valve solenoid. |
| F8E3 | Inlet water, suds or air in pump | Too many suds. Also a missing diverter disk in the sump. |
| F8E4 | Inlet water, overfill switch open | Float switch unplugged, or water sitting in the leak pan under the unit. |
| F8E5 | Inlet water, fill valve stuck open | Water flowing through the meter with the valve commanded shut. |
| F8E6 | Inlet water, flow meter | Disconnected or damaged flow meter. |
| F9E1 | Draining, not draining | Obstructed drain hose or drain path. |
| F9E2 | Draining, motor electrical | Loose connection, open winding, or debris locking the rotor. |
| F9E4 | Draining, tub light circuit | Loose connection or open in the tub light circuit. |
| F10E1, shown FAE1 | Dispenser electrical | Loose connection or open dispenser solenoid. |
| F10E2, shown FAE2 | Vent electrical | Loose connection or open vent wax motor. |
| F10E3, shown FAE3 | Drying fan electrical | Loose connection or open fan motor winding. |
| F10E4, shown FAE4 | Diverter cannot find positions | Corroded or loose connection in the diverter sensor or motor. |
| F10E5, shown FAE5 | Diverter leak | Corroded connection in the diverter sensor, or a leak at the diverter seal. |
Two things about that table are worth pointing out. F10 and FA are the same code, printed both ways because a two-character display cannot show a ten. A reader seeing FAE5 and a reader seeing F10E5 have the same fault.
And only eight of those twenty-six stop the machine and sound an alarm: F1E1, F7E1, F7E2, F8E1, F8E4, F8E5, F9E1 and F10E5. Pressing Cancel once silences the alarm without clearing the fault.
H2O is not a separate code. Maytag’s own article title makes it the same fault as F8E1. The manual explains where it comes from: the alarm fires when an installer forgets to open the water valve.
A large share of Maytag dishwasher not draining calls are plumbing rather than appliance, and Maytag treats this as its own category. It even splits its F8E4 article by whether the machine was self-installed.
If F8E4 appears on a professionally installed machine, treat it as live water. Maytag’s instruction is to shut the supply off and press Cancel once to silence the alarm. Leave the power on with the door closed while the drain sequence runs.
Installation work sits on our dishwasher installation page. If yours was fitted by someone else and has never run properly, say so when you book.
Code F9E1. After the installation checks above come the filter, the drain hose itself, the sink disposer and the air gap. Only then the Maytag dishwasher pump, and F9E2 separates a pump that is electrically dead from one that is jammed.
A Maytag dishwasher won’t drain and a Maytag dishwasher not draining are the same call. The drain pump and the circulation pump are different parts, and only one is implicated here.
A Maytag dishwasher not starting often reports F5E1, which means the door was not latched within four seconds of pressing Start. A Maytag dishwasher won’t start is a Maytag dishwasher door latch question first.
Maytag dishwasher door latch repair is short work, and the door switch behind it is the part the control actually reads. Maytag dishwasher flashing lights and a Maytag dishwasher beeping are usually the fault alarm above, not a separate problem.
A Maytag dishwasher control panel not working is different again, and F2E1 covers a stuck key on the touchpad. Maytag dishwasher touchpad repair and a Maytag dishwasher control board replacement are two different jobs. A Maytag dishwasher not working at all points at the board, the harness, or the thermal fuse ahead of them.
Mineral scale blocks the Maytag dishwasher spray arm nozzles, and food soil clouds the turbidity sensor lens that F3E2 reports. Both reduce cleaning without breaking anything electrical.
A Maytag dishwasher not spraying water and a Maytag dishwasher not washing usually separate at the wash pump. Check the upper spray arm, the lower spray arm and, on a tall tub machine, the middle spray arm. A worn spray arm bearing hub stops rotation entirely.
The Maytag dishwasher heating element runs silently, so a failed one gives no warning at all. F4E2 and F4E3 cover the heater relay in both of its failure directions, open and shorted.
Check the rinse aid dispenser too, because empty rinse aid looks exactly like a drying fault. The detergent dispenser next to it fails separately and shows up as poor cleaning instead.
Code F8E1, and the supply comes before the machine every time. Then the inlet screen, then the water inlet valve, then the flow meter that F8E6 reports. The wash tub itself is rarely the problem.
F10E5 names a leak at the diverter seal specifically. Beyond that, the door gasket, the fill hose connections and the pump seals are the usual paths. Water in the leak pan trips the float that produces F8E4.
Neither photograph is of a Maytag machine and we will not caption it as one. Both show what this section describes on any dishwasher.
Count the blinks before you call if the machine has no display. The Clean light gives you the fault code, and reading it to us shortens the visit considerably.
Call us when there is water in the leak pan. Call us when the machine will not drain with the filter clear, or when a code returns after a power cycle.
Book online. If it was installed recently and has never worked properly, say so, because that changes where we start looking.
Two things about this metro genuinely affect a dishwasher, and both come with a number you can check.
Incoming water temperature. Maytag recommends water arriving at 120 degrees and names 84 degrees as the point where cycles stretch and sanitizing falters. Run the tap at the sink with a thermometer before assuming the machine is slow.
Supply voltage. The manual asks for at least 100 volts at the outlet, because a heater on low voltage takes a very long time to heat water. That is the answer to a complaint people describe as a four-hour cycle.
And the one we refuse. Maytag’s hard-water threshold is above 15 grains. Denver Water classifies this supply as soft to moderately hard, well under that line. So we are not going to tell you Denver’s hard water ruined your dishwasher, however easy that would be to write.
Scale in a spray arm is still a real mechanism, and we still clean it. It is just not a local excuse.
We read the code first, from the display or from the blink pattern. The manual’s own instruction is worth quoting. Fault codes give direction, and a technician should confirm the fault before replacing parts.
Then the installation, because a machine that has never worked properly is usually telling you about its plumbing. Supply, drain path, level, float switch, air gap.
Then the components, in the order the code points at. Wash motor, drain pump, water inlet valve, float switch, heating element, door latch, diverter and control board. Every repair carries a 100-day labor warranty.
We source Maytag dishwasher parts through national supplier networks and manufacturer contracts. Maytag dishwasher repair service, Maytag dishwasher service and Maytag dishwasher repair service near me all reach the same team.
Coverage across every brand sits on our dishwasher repair page. The rest of the kitchen is on our Maytag kitchen appliances page, and the whole brand starts from Maytag appliance repair. Laundry sits on our Maytag laundry appliances page and cooking on our Maytag cooking appliances page.
The overfill switch is open, which usually means water has reached the leak pan under the machine or the float switch is unplugged. Maytag splits its own answer by who installed it. On a professionally installed machine, shut the water off, press Cancel once, and leave the power on with the door shut.
Watch the Clean or Complete light. It blinks the function number, pauses about two seconds, blinks the error number, then pauses about five seconds and repeats. Eight blinks, a pause, then four blinks is F8E4.
Start at the filter and the drain hose, then the disposer and the air gap. On a newly installed machine, check whether the disposer knockout plug was removed, because that single omission accounts for a great many of these calls.
The same fault as F8E1, no water detected. Maytag notes the alarm fires when an installer forgets to open the water valve, so on a new machine check the supply before anything else.
Cycling power at the breaker for around thirty seconds is Maytag’s own first step for several codes. Pressing Cancel once silences a fault alarm. Neither repairs anything, so a code that returns after a reset is a real fault.
For cleaning, look at the spray arm nozzles and the sensor lens, both of which fill with scale and soil. For drying, the heating element runs silently and gives no sign when it fails, which is why F4E2 and F4E3 matter.
Two numbers explain most of it. Water arriving below 84 degrees stretches the cycle, and supply voltage under 100 volts leaves the heater struggling. Both are measurable before any part is considered.
A drain pump, a float switch, a door latch, a heating element or a fill valve is routine work worth doing. A failed main control board on an older machine is where the answer changes. Maytag publishes no service life, so neither do we.
It moves with the part and with whether the fault is the machine or the plumbing behind it. We publish no figure, because an installation fault and a failed control board are not the same job.
Drainage, door latches and scale. A Maytag dishwasher warranty repair inside the coverage period is worth checking before booking, because terms vary by model and year.
Read it against the table above. There are twenty-six documented pairs, and only eight of them stop the machine and sound an alarm.
The door latch first, because F5E1 fires when the door is not latched within four seconds of pressing Start. Then the touchpad, then the control board.
Yes. MDC is the portable and MDB the built-in, and they share most components. The portable adds a faucet coupling that has its own failure modes.
The whole metro, from the city out through the surrounding suburbs. Coverage for the city itself sits on our appliance repair in Denver page. Searching Maytag dishwasher repair near me from anywhere in the metro reaches the same team.
Tell us the code, or count the blinks on the Clean light. Your dishwasher reports its fault even without a display.
Expert advice, maintenance tips, and troubleshooting guides for Maytag appliances from our technicians.

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Wilson & Myers dispatches insured technicians to homes running Maytag appliances throughout the Denver Metro Area.
The visit starts with the fault code and the plumbing, because a large share of these calls are installation rather than appliance. Every repair carries a 100-day labor warranty.
Wilson & Myers is a verified member of the Denver Metro Chamber of Commerce.
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