
Frigidaire Ice Maker Not Working? 7 Causes and How to Fix Each
You pull open the freezer on a July evening and find an empty bin. A Frigidaire ice maker not working in peak summer is one of the most frequent calls our Denv…
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Check the display before you book. LOC is the control lock, CAL is calibration, a lone C means Celsius and a blank clock is a hidden-display setting. None of those is a fault, and all four get mistaken for one.
If the display shows a code starting with F, that one is real and it needs a technician. What it means depends on which of three control platforms your machine runs, because the same code says different things on each.
Wilson & Myers covers Maytag ovens across the Denver Metro Area with insured technicians, manufacturer resistance values rather than guesswork, and a 100-day labor warranty.
A washer splits one way. A range splits three ways, and the service manual is explicit that all three change what a technician does first.
MER is a Maytag electric range, MGR a gas one. Electric heats with a bake and broil element. Gas heats with igniters and a spark board, and the two share no heat components at all.
R is freestanding, S is slide-in, D is drop-in and T is a two-oven range. Maytag publishes a different code index for wall ovens than for ranges.
Maxwell and MRC, LCC and LCX, or Indigo. Three generations, three separate fault-code tables, and they do not agree with each other.
Here is one consequence with no theory in it. In electric models the convection fan starts immediately. In gas models it starts only after a five-minute delay. Same complaint, opposite verdict, decided by the letter after the M.
Feature digits help too. In the second feature position a 6 is a thermal oven, a 7 is fan convection and an 8 is true convection. So Maytag electric oven repair on an MER8800F involves a convection element a thermal model does not have.
Maytag’s own literature names MER8800FZ and MGR8800FZ as the same freestanding range in two fuels. MET8800FZ is a Maytag double oven range, and MEW9527FZ is a wall oven. A slide-in range carries an S where those carry an R.
Maytag oven error codes read as an F number and an E number, and Maytag’s own support notes they can appear in either order. The F names the suspect system. The E names the suspect component.
That much is shared. The lists are not. F3E2 is the warming drawer sensor on one control platform and a bake or broil over-temperature on another. One is a drawer nobody cooks in. The other is an oven that has overheated.
Search a Maytag oven F3 error code and land on a page giving one answer. You then have even odds of being told to ignore a thermal fault. That is why the three tables below are never merged.
Telling the platforms apart is easy once you know. Maxwell, MRC, LCC and LCX all enter diagnostics with CANCEL, CANCEL, START. Indigo is a touch screen with its own service menu. A display showing only F3 is not truncated, it is a three-character control.
| Code | Likely failure condition | The manual's first move |
|---|---|---|
| F1 E0 | EEPROM communication error | Enter diagnostics and confirm. An F1 points at the oven control, an F2 at the keypad membrane. |
| F1 E5 | Sensor out of range | Same branch. |
| F1 E7 | Board thermistor open or shorted | Same branch. |
| F2 E0 | Keypad disconnected | User interface branch. |
| F2 E1 | Stuck key | User interface branch. |
| F2 E2 | Cancel key error | User interface branch. |
| F3 E0 | Main sensor open or shorted | Read the sensor in diagnostics. Near room temperature means replace it. Otherwise measure 1,000 to 1,200 ohms. |
| F3 E2 | Warming drawer sensor open or shorted | Same procedure, warming drawer branch. |
| F5 E0 | Door and switch disagree in Clean mode | With the test display active, open the door and watch the reading change. Then the actuating rod, then the switch. |
| F5 E1 | Door latch not operating in Clean mode | Run the lock motor from diagnostics. Latch motor reads 500 to 3,000 ohms. |
| F6 E1 | Over temperature, cook | Replace the control. |
| F6 E2 | Over temperature, clean | Replace the control. |
| F6 E3 | Over temperature, warming drawer | Replace the control. |
| F9 E0 | House or range mis-wired | Check the supply legs at the outlet. A qualified electrician verifies the wiring back to the panel. |
| Code | Likely failure condition | The manual's first move |
|---|---|---|
| F1, F1E0 | Internal board failure | Replace the control. |
| F1E1, F1E2 | Analogue to digital error | Replace the control. |
| F2, F2E0 | Shorted key | Inspect the keypad connection, then the keypad, then the main control. |
| F2E1 | Shorted key on LCX | Same branch. |
| F3, F3E0 | Oven sensor opened | Confirm the sensor reads room temperature, then measure 1,000 to 1,200 ohms. |
| F3E1 | Oven sensor shorted | Same procedure. |
| F3, F3E2 | Bake or broil over temperature | Same sensor procedure. |
| F3E3 | Clean over temperature | Same sensor procedure. |
| F5, F5E0, F5E2 | Door and position switches disagree in Clean mode | Inspect the door for warping. Verify switch continuity fully depressed. |
| F5, F5E1 | Door latch not operating in Clean mode | Run the lock motor. Branch on whether it latched and whether the icon lit. |
| F6E1 | Over temperature, cook, on LCX | Check whether the oven is warm against what the sensor reads, then measure it. |
| F9, F9E0 | House or range mis-wired | Verify the supply legs. Then check the bake element resistance is in spec. |
That last row deserves a second look. On this platform a mis-wired code can be thrown by a failed bake element rather than by the house wiring. Nothing else answering this query online carries it.
| Code | What it is | The threshold that triggers it |
|---|---|---|
| F1E0 | EEPROM communication error, often cleared by cycling power | Immediately, on an unexpected communication event. |
| F2E0 | Keypad disconnected | Within 60 seconds of the keypad losing its connection. |
| F2E1 | Stuck keypad, sometimes just a key held too long | Within 120 seconds of a key being held. |
| F3E0 | Main oven sensor open or shorted | Above 995 F or below 0 F, within 20 seconds of a cook or clean function. |
| F6E0 | Interface lost communication with the control | Within 60 seconds of the link dropping. |
| F6E1 | Oven temperature | Above 601 F. The oven locks out until it reads below that. |
| F6E4 | Interface and control state mismatch | Within 60 seconds of the mismatch. |
| F8E0 | Cooling fan too slow, or a Hall effect sensor problem | Below 500 rpm with the cavity above 170 F. |
| F8E2 | Cooling fan too fast | Above 5,000 rpm, same cavity condition. |
| F9E0 | Product mis-wired | Verify 220 volts across the legs and 120 volts on each leg to neutral. |
Two honest notes on the wider code list. A Maytag oven F1 error code points at the sensor, the control or the wiring between them, which is Maytag’s own wording rather than ours. A Maytag oven F2 error code is the keypad family on every platform above, not an over-temperature.
And a Maytag oven F7 error code is a string Maytag publishes without publishing a meaning we could read. We will not invent one. Bring us the code and the model and we will read it against the right table.
Five of the ten things a Maytag range shows are settings, not failures. Each one sends people looking for a technician they do not need.
PF and a flashing clock both mean a power failure happened. Reset the clock and carry on. Genuine service codes are the ones beginning with F, which Maytag says plainly require a technician.
Every symptom below has a Maytag-specific layer and a general one. We give the Maytag layer here and send you to the fuller walkthrough for the rest, because restating it badly helps nobody.
A Maytag oven heating element not working is the usual electric answer. The bake element and the broil element are the heat, at 10 to 40 ohms nominal. Maytag electric oven not heating and Maytag electric oven not heating up properly separate on that measurement. On a gas machine the heat is a bake igniter and a broil igniter at 40 to 400 ohms. A spark board at 216 ohms drives them. Nothing crosses over.
Before any of that, the manual gates the whole diagnosis on the supply. On an electric range nothing proceeds outside ten percent above and fifteen percent below 240 volts. Our guide to an oven that will not heat up works the general decision tree properly.
This is the most-searched version of the complaint and it very often is not a broken part. On a gas range a second shut-off valve sits at the pressure regulator, and closed it feeds the cooktop while starving the oven.
An oven bottom lined with foil does the same thing by blocking flow to the burner. So does an item left in the storage drawer. Our guide to a gas oven that will not light covers the ignition side in full detail.
A Maytag oven control board not working and a Maytag oven control panel not working are two different repairs. One is the board, one is the touchpad membrane, and the fault codes above separate them.
A Maytag oven display not working and Maytag oven buttons not working usually point at the same keypad membrane. The Electronic Range Control behind it is a separate part, and a Maytag stove oven not working at all is often neither.
The self-clean and thermal fuse story behind a dead oven belongs to our guide to an oven that will not turn on. We bring the Maytag code and resistance layer to it.
Calibration drift is real and Maytag publishes a way to test for it before anyone opens anything. Maytag’s own instruction is never to calibrate an oven more than ten degrees at a time.
An oven that browns unevenly and a Maytag oven broiler not working separate cleanly once the sensor is measured. So does a Maytag oven not heating up all the way.
Neither photograph is of a Maytag machine, and we are not going to caption it as one. Both show the components this section describes on any gas range.
Rule out the settings first. LOC, CAL, a Celsius display and Sabbath mode all look like faults, and not one of them is.
Call us when the display shows an F code, or when the oven runs hot or cold against an oven thermometer. Call us when the door stays locked long after a clean cycle.
Book online and give us the model number and the code together. That pair tells us which of the three platform tables applies to your machine.
The cooktop is not a separate appliance in service terms. It shares the component chart with the oven, and on the Indigo platform it shares the control board.
It does have its own numbers though, and its own most-common complaint, which is a burner clicking that turns out to be normal. All of that sits on our Maytag stove repair page along with the surface element measurements.
If the surface works and the oven does not, stay here. If it is the other way around, that page is the one you want.
The door lock is a motorised latch and it reads 500 to 3,000 ohms. The door gasket around it is what holds the heat in, and a burnt gasket is worth replacing at the same visit. Several fault codes exist only in Clean mode. Two say the door and its switches disagree, one says the latch will not operate, and a pair covers clean over-temperature.
One detail catches people out. On the Maxwell platform the latch motor will not cycle with the oven door open. A customer who props the door to watch it work sees nothing move and concludes the latch is dead.
After a clean cycle the oven has to fall to roughly 200 degrees before the door will open. On older manual-latch ranges that is a wait of thirty to ninety minutes before the latch arm will move.
The supply gate comes first, and it is in the manual rather than in our preferences. Nothing proceeds with a blown fuse, a tripped breaker or an out-of-range outlet. A range that will not heat is often a supply problem in a control-board costume.
Then the stored codes, read against the platform table that applies. Then the components, measured rather than guessed. An oven sensor reads 1,000 to 1,200 ohms across all seven charts in the manual. It is one of the few numbers that does not change.
A bake or broil element reads 10 to 40 ohms. A gas igniter reads 40 to 400. The spark board reads 216, and the latch motor 500 to 3,000. A part that measures in range does not get replaced.
We check the wiring harness at every connector before condemning a board, and the gas safety valve before condemning an igniter. On models with one, the meat probe jack is a common intermittent. A broil drawer under the cavity has its own element and its own wiring.
Every repair carries a 100-day labor warranty. We source Maytag parts through national supplier networks and manufacturer contracts. Coverage across every brand sits on our oven repair, wall oven repair and stove and cooktop pages.
Maytag oven repair service near me, Maytag stove repair near me and Maytag stove repair service all reach the same team and the same schedule. The rest of the brand starts from our Maytag cooking appliances page and our Maytag appliance repair page.
On an electric machine, start at the bake element and the oven sensor. On a gas machine, start at the supply valve and the igniter. The model badge decides which of those two conversations you are in before anyone opens the machine.
The oven temperature sensor, open or shorted. It is measured against 1,000 to 1,200 ohms, and a sensor reading near room temperature when the oven is hot has failed. F3E2 is the exception that proves the point, because it means something different on two platforms.
A Maytag oven F5 error code is the door lock family, and every one of those codes is tied to Clean mode. Either the door and its switches disagree, or the latch motor is not operating. We test the motor rather than assume it.
Maytag’s own answer is the oven temperature sensor, the control, or the wiring between them. Its first suggested step is a one-minute power cycle at the breaker, then watching for a minute to see whether the code returns.
Maytag lists the string but publishes no meaning we have been able to read from a source we trust. We would rather tell you that than guess. Bring us the code and the model number and we will read it against the correct platform table.
Oven sensors drifting out of calibration, bake and broil elements failing open, door latches sticking after a clean cycle, and keypad membranes wearing out. On gas machines, igniters that glow without opening the valve.
Usually. A sensor, an element, an igniter or a latch motor is routine work on a machine worth keeping. A failed control board on an older range is where the answer changes. We will say so before ordering anything.
It moves with the fuel type, the fault and the part, so a single figure would be a guess. Gas and electric ranges carry different components for the same complaint. We diagnose first, quote second.
Yes. Maytag wall oven repair, Maytag gas range repair and Maytag electric range repair are all routine. So are Maytag gas oven repair, Maytag gas stove repair and Maytag electric stove repair. Each has its own code index.
Usually the second shut-off valve at the pressure regulator, not a failed part. Maytag gas oven not heating complaints split that way more often than owners expect, so we check the valve before the igniter.
No. Induction is outside our scope across every brand. A model badge beginning MI is one we will decline on the phone rather than after a visit.
The whole metro, from the city out through the surrounding suburbs. Coverage for the city itself sits on our appliance repair in Denver page. Searching Maytag oven repair near me or Maytag range repair near me reaches the same team.
Tell us the model badge and the code on the display. MER or MGR settles the fuel, and the display settles which code table applies.
Expert advice, maintenance tips, and troubleshooting guides for Maytag appliances from our technicians.

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Wilson & Myers dispatches insured technicians to homes running Maytag appliances throughout the Denver Metro Area.
The visit starts at the outlet and the stored fault codes, because a range that will not heat is often a supply problem. Gas and electric machines share no heat components. Every repair carries a 100-day labor warranty.

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